The French get it. At least when it comes to food and romance. Mix Paris with a little New York and you have yourself a seriously original duo. Enter L’Enfant Cafe, a tiny bistro in Adams Morgan, and you see that America à la France at its greatest. It boasts only 16 tables, but dishes out some serious french fare that transport you to a cafe in the center of Le Marais. On a weekend, it is a great spot to find a croque madame and espresso, and on a weeknight, a perfect date spot for intimate conversation and glasses of rouge. This place is just as one imagines a Parisian bistro to be: effortlessly fabulous.

But that’s just the half of it. L’Enfant is so much more than just a restaurant. Co-owned by Christopher Lynch and Jim Ball, two New Yorkers who wanted to bring the art-y to Party, L’Enfant has turned into an institution of fun fare. Known for their yearly Bastille Day French Maid Relay Race, as well as their infamous Saturday Le Boum brunches, these guys keep it coming. Now, they are making Sunday the new Funday with a one of a kind dining experience. What does that entail? One word: Cabaret.

croque madame courtesy of snackfight

On Sunday nights, L’Enfant Cafe turns into a full blown Cabaret Speakeasy.You walk in through a back door and go into a Woody Allen-esque Midnight in Paris. The menu, priced at $50 per person, is ever-changing and not given in advance, rather you are surprised by the ambiance and accompanying high quality food. The night we went we were enjoyed a truffled white bean and escarole provencal soup, almond crusted pork tenderloin with braised pears and apples, honey buttered baby carrots and wild rice with cranberries. For dessert, we had a chocolate pate with raspberry cream and blackberry port sauce.

Photo courtesy Christopher Lynch

But the real show happens when the music is lowered  and the cabaret begins. Chris and Jim, other than being pretty great restaurateurs, are quite hilarious and together create an instant welcome and break the ice for all you “speak easy virgins.”

“We wanted to evoke a social dining experience,” says Chris, and that is exactly what it is. The close quarters mean your neighboring tables will become your best friends, and the show on stage is interactive. At any moment, you good sir, may become the source or butt of a joke. You are essentially locked in these close quarters to mingle and make new friends. What happens at L’Enfant stays at L’Enfant,  just keep the champagne flowing and the personality rolling.

On February 12, Flotilla DeBarge, who has been featured in Sex and the City and on Broadways alongside Cyndi Lauper and Alan Cummings, will be hosting a solo show.  Titled “Flotilla DeBarge’s Love Boat”  this one-”woman” comedy show it perfect for singles and couples alike. And while I am usually a cynic with all things cupid and cute, I couldn’t think of a better place to take a date. It is all about having a sense of humor, an ability to enjoy new things and a chance to be transported out of D.C. for the night without leaving NW.

Photo courtesy Christopher Lynch

Joey Arias, the Gaga of Cabaret, is the feature showman on other nights. A New York City based performer, cabaret singer, and drag artist, Arias is also known for hosting Cirque du Soleil’s Zumanity show in Las Vegas for six years. He also just finished his off-Broadway show “Arias with a Twist” which will have a five-week run at the Woolly Mammoth Theatre in D.C. Upcoming shows will be hosted on February 19th (Joey Arias will be performing Patty Boom- former Scissors Sister), March 11 and March 25th.

Reservations can only be made via the website www.lenfantcafe.com

You can thank me later for letting you in on one of the best kept secrets in the District.

The sophisticated home decor flash-sale site One Kings Lane hosted its first event in Washington, DC last week – a party celebrating their “Tastemaker Tag Sale” collaboration with Thornwillow Press. Guests were invited to Thornwillow’s stationery salon in the lobby of the historic and lovely St Regis Hotel to preview the vintage and exclusive items curated by Thornwillow founder, Luke Ives Pontifell.


We Love DC – Thornwillow – 01-26-12 02
courtesy of mosley.brian

The San Francisco-based One Kings Lane was happy to host a reception in Washington DC to meet guests from the design community who turned out to eye the interesting objects, romantic letterpress paper-goods, and beautifully bound books. This has been a strong market for their site which often skews to sales of modern or globally-influenced takes on classic decor – which seems very DC.

We Love DC – Thornwillow – 01-26-12 03
courtesy of mosley.brian

We Love DC – Thornwillow – 01-26-12 07
courtesy of mosley.brian

We Love DC – Thornwillow – 01-26-12 09
courtesy of mosley.brian

Gerlinde Kaltenbrunner; Photo courtesy National Geographic

As spring looms on the horizon, so does National Geographic Live’s new season. For the third year in a row, the National Geographic Museum is offering WeLoveDC readers a monthly chance to enjoy one of their premier events. We’re giving away two pairs of tickets to readers and entering is simple. Look through the great programs coming up in February and pick two you’d like to attend. Then in the comment field, simply enter your choices. (Make sure you use your first name and a valid email address!) Winners for February will be chosen at random in the afternoon on Tuesday, January 31.

All programs (unless otherwise noted) will take place in Grosvenor Auditorium at 1600 M Street, NW.

Tickets may be purchased online at www.nglive.org, via telephone at (202) 857-7700, or in person at the National Geographic ticket office between 9 am and 5 pm. Free parking is available in the National Geographic underground garage for all programs that begin after 6 pm.

Uncovering Hidden World ($20)
Tuesday, Feb. 7; 7:30 pm

As a staff photographer with National Geographic, Jodi Cobb has worked in more than 60 countries—celebrating the best of the human spirit and spotlighting some of its worst abuses.

She is best known for lifting the curtain on worlds closed to outsiders, such as Japan’s geisha, Saudi Arabian women, the grim underworld of human trafficking. Experience a retrospective of her most important work as she also shares images and stories from her most recent assignment, a story on twins for the January 2012 issue of National Geographic.

Dennis Luxion-Michael Raynor Quartet; Photo courtesy National Geographic

The Rhythm Road – American Music Abroad (Free; No Tickets Required)
Thursday, Feb. 9; 6:00 pm & 7:15 pm

The Rhythm Road: American Music Abroad, produced by Jazz at Lincoln Center and the U.S. Department of State’s Bureau of Educational and Cultural Affairs, is designed to foster cultural exchange worldwide. Between March 2011 and February 2012, ten talented American jazz, urban, gospel, blues, and roots music artists will visit Eastern Europe, Africa, Asia, the Middle East and South America. International tour activities include concerts, workshops, demonstrations, and collaborations with local musicians. The program also incorporates free performances by each group at Jazz at Lincoln Center’s Dizzy’s Club Coca-Cola, and for National Geographic Live.

6 pm: Ari Roland Jazz Quartet This New York-based group takes inspiration from the Golden Age of Jazz. The ensemble’s repertoire includes pieces by jazz legends Charlie Parker, Dizzy Gillespie, and Billie Holiday, as well as their own original compositions.

7:15 pm: Mountain Quickstep Combining the bluegrass, and early country music of the Adirondack,Appalachia, and Smoky Mountain regions, this group showcases the diversity of American rural music, through lively fiddle tunes, lonesome folksongs, and fancy footwork.

A Portable Life ($20)
Friday, Feb. 10; 7:30 pm

Travel writer Pico Iyer brings a unique perspective to the issues of cultural globalization. His essays appear in National Geographic Traveler, Time, and Harper’s, and he has authored a dozen books, including The Open Road: The Global Journey of the 14th Dalai Lama. Join Iyer and Traveler magazine’s Don George, former Global Travel Editor of Lonely Planet Publications, for a conversation about the challenges and rewards of letting yourself be vulnerable in foreign places.

Conquering the 14 ($20)
Monday, Feb. 13; 7:30 pm

A decade ago, Gerlinde Kaltenbrunner worked as a nurse saving money for cherished climbing trips. In August 2011, she became the first woman to summit the world’s fourteen 8,000-meter peaks without supplemental oxygen with her daring climb of K2, to be featured in the April 2012 issue of National Geographic. Meet this intrepid mountaineer and share her odysseys to the world’s highest places.

Jim Davidson; Photo courtesy National Geographic

Global Glimpses: Foreign Language Film Nominees ($8 per Film)
Feb. 17 – 19; times vary; check www.nationalgeographic.org/allroads for titles and schedule

Join us for elite screenings of the five films nominated as Oscar® winners for the 2012 Best Foreign Language Film Award, one week before the 84rd Academy Awards ceremony. All screenings include receptions before or after the films.

The Rhythm Road – American Music Abroad (Free; No Tickets Required)
Thursday, Feb. 23; 6:00 pm & 7:15 pm

The Rhythm Road: American Music Abroad, produced by Jazz at Lincoln Center and the U.S. Department of State’s Bureau of Educational and Cultural Affairs, is designed to foster cultural exchange worldwide. Between March 2011 and February 2012, ten talented American jazz, urban, gospel, blues, and roots music artists will visit Eastern Europe, Africa, Asia, the Middle East and South America. International tour activities include concerts, workshops, demonstrations, and collaborations with local musicians. The program also incorporates free performances by each group at Jazz at Lincoln Center’s Dizzy’s Club Coca-Cola, and for National Geographic Live.

6 pm: Dennis Luxion / Michael Raynor Quartet This Chicago group plays original, hard-swinging jazz inspired by saxophone improvisation, from introspective solo explorations to powerful group performances.

7:15 pm: Legacy From East Orange, NJ, this group creates music about faith, love, struggle, and the pursuit of beauty in life. Legacy’s alternative hip hop sound is influenced by various genres of music including West African, house, jazz, and breakbeat.

The Ledge ($20)
Wednesday, Feb. 29; 7:30 pm

Descending from the summit of Mount Rainier one day in June 1992, Jim Davidson fell through a snow bridge, dragging his climbing partner with him into a hidden 80-foot deep crevasse. Davidson’s new book The Ledge, named one of Amazon.com’s Best Outdoor & Nature Books for 2011, tells the dramatic story of how he witnessed his partner’s death and survived the fall, making an impossible climb up a sheer ice wall.

Every day on her acclaimed NPR talk show Fresh Air, over four million listeners tune in to hear hostess Terry Gross interview prominent figures in politics, culture, and the arts in an intimate, long-form format that is too rarely heard in the mainstream media. On February 3, the microphone will be flipped around on Ms. Gross for a special event at the Music Center at Strathmore. Head up to Bethesda for an evening with the famed journalist and hear her “behind the mic” stories of her decades on the air and the fascinating brains she has had the unique opportunity to pick.

Alternate title: Audience Participation Has Gone Too Far

Arena Stage has apparently been dipping into the Thanksgiving cooking sherry; Previews for their new show You, Nero are starting on Saturday and they’ve decided to encourage you to get into the spirit – they’re running pay what you can deals… provided you show up in a toga.

You’ll get to dull the pain of embarrassment - or perhaps just the chill – with $2 PBR as well. I has no idea Pabst was Roman and that’s about $3 more than a PBR is worth as far as I’m concerned, but hey, cheap beer.

The only really obnoxious part of this light-hearted promotion is that they’ll sell two tickets to each person in a toga, allowing one of you to look like a normal human. Well, a normal human accompanied by some dweeb in a bedsheet.

If you’ve never gone out and tried theater during pay what you can previews this would be a fun Thanksgiving weekend outing for you; PWYC tends to be full of all the other theater folk from town and they’re very enthusiastic. For a show obviously going for the fun angle – to the point where they’re letting you bring your booze into the theater itself – that should make for a good energy.

Previews and PWYC will continue through 12/4 so if you can’t get your turkey-stuffed keester off the couch this weekend you’ll still have a little time. Confirm showtimes and dates at the at the Arena link above.

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Since moving to DC, I’ve been wanting to play a socialite a la Real Housewives, but every time the opportunity arises my limo’s in the shop and my bank account is empty. Sigh.

If you face the same problem, why not check out the Capital City Ball this Saturday night? For $150 you get an open bar, heavy hors d’oeuvres, and a dance floor for the evening at The Washington Club. Not a bad deal.

But the gala also supports local charities that fight human trafficking (also known as modern-day slavery). This year the charities include Courtney’s House, Bridge to Freedom, HIPS, and WEAVE. All four groups assist victims of trafficking in DC who need education, legal help, counseling and other services.

The regular “Advocate” ticket price covers the event itself. So if you want to support the charities directly or add to your karma, visit the silent auction or purchase an “Angel” ticket. For $250, an Angel ticket gives you access to a sponsor lounge and private after-party, plus a $125 tax deduction.

Remember this is a black tie affair, so no jeggings. And don’t wreck your gown schlepping through Metro Center for your transfer: valet parking is provided with your ticket.

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This Friday at 4:30 pm, the International Spy Museum, in cooperation with the Association for Slavic, East European and Eurasian Studies, is hosting an event on Stalin-era espionage. The free event includes the opportunity to view unique artifacts from the life of one of the Soviet Union’s most famous spies, Dmitri Bystrolyotov, as well as a chance to interact with the Museum’s historians and several panel experts.

Dmitri was the Soviet Union’s real life James Bond, earning a reputation as one of the greatest Soviet Spies of all time. He was a sailor, doctor, lawyer and artist recruited by Stalin for his dashing good looks and ease with languages to seduce secrets from willing targets during the 1920s and 30s. However, after falling out of Stalin’s favor, Dmitri was sentenced to the Gulag for 16 years.

‘F Street – Rendezvous – 01-31-11′
courtesy of ‘mosley.brian’

In this behind-the-scenes event you will see powerful artifacts from Bystrolyotov’s life in the Gulag donated by his family, including:

• Winter Gloves – The winter gloves that Bystrolyotov wore in the Gulag.
• Wooden spoon and cigarette holder – that he bartered for in the Gulag and then decorated himself.
• Manuscript – An account of Bystrolyotov’s adventures in Africa, handwritten in the Gulag in a combination of ink and iodine taken from the camp infirmary.
• Self-portrait – made in iodine.
• Typescript – Entire first volume of Bystrolyotov’s memoirs with handwritten author’s corrections.
• Copper ashtray – hand made in the shape of a goat from Bystrolyotov’s desk.

Guests have a chance to meet the Museum’s Historian and Collections Manager, Mark Stout, and hear from a panel of top experts on the subject of Stalin’s spies, including:

• Prof. Emil Draitser, author of Stalin’s Romeo Spy, is Professor of Russian, Department of Classical and Oriental Studies, Russian Division, Hunter College of the City University of New York.
• Stephen Schwartz, is a well-known journalist and independent scholar and author; his books include Intellectuals and Assassins: Writings at the End of Soviet Communism and Sarajevo Rose: A Balkan Jewish Notebook.
• Prof. Susan Weissman, is Professor of Politics at Saint Mary’s College of California and hosts a weekly drive-time radio program on KPFK in Los Angeles. She is the author of Victor Serge: The Course is Set on Hope.
• Peter Katel, is a veteran journalist who previously served as Latin America bureau chief for Time magazine, in Mexico City, and as a Miami-based correspondent for Newsweek and The Miami Herald’s El Nuevo Herald.

This special afternoon concludes as speakers, staff, and guests continue the discussion over drinks with complementary light appetizers just around the corner at the Riot Act Comedy Theater.

The International Spy Museum is located in Penn Quarter at the corner of 8th and F Streets, NW. The closest Metro is Gallery Place/Chinatown, which services the Red, Yellow, and Green lines. For more information, call the museum at 202.393.7798.

Last night the battle between some of DC’s best chefs raged on for DC Central Kitchen’s 8th annual Capital Food Fight. In the final round, chefs Haidar Karoum of Proof and Estadio and Todd Gray of Equinox and Watershed worked with the secret ingredient: lamb. At the end, judges Ming Tsai, Joan Nathan and Ted Allen named Haidar as the champion (he’s the man with the boxing gloves in the above photo).

Chefs Brian McBride and Jeff Black also competed as featured DC chefs. One of the highlights of the night included a surprise battle round with former Top Chef contestants Mike Isabella, Carla Hall, Spike Mendelsohn and Jennifer Carroll working with Idaho russett potatoes as the secret ingredient.

The sold-out food fight raised $550,000 for DCCK’s programs, according to their website. You can check out more photos from last night’s Capital Food Fight here.

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Via Thrillist this morning, the now-closed ESPN Zone is auctioning off pretty much all of their arcade games and the going prices aren’t bad. Knowing the WeLoveDC audience, I figured there would be some of you out there interested in getting your gaming hands on some of these classics. Aside from the games, the auction includes lighting, furniture and industrial kitchen equipment from the Zone, so if you’re in need of an ice cream machine or a heavy duty deep fryer this is your auction.

If I lived in a group house, I would totally be ALL over my housemates to chip in and buy one of these beauties. Personally, I’m partial to the Trophy Hunting (Bear & Moose) and the Super Shot games, but I’m sure the Slapshot Hockey and Washington Redskins Football Throwing game will be big fan favorites as well.

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FotoWeek DC will return to the District this week for a series of exhibits celebrating the art of photography. The festival features over 150 photography-related workshops, lectures and exhibitions, as well as portfolio reviews by a specialized panel at the Corcoran Gallery of Art. It all starts with a launch party scheduled for this Friday, and a schedule of events can be found below. The festivities run from November 5th – 12th.

The festival kicks off this evening with a launch party. The double party begins at 5pm at at the project headquarters, FotoWeek Central, located at 1800 L Street NW. At 8:30pm the party moves to the Corcoran Gallery of Art, located at 500 17th St NW, for a party featuring DJs, cocktails, and hors d’oeuvres. Tickets are still available.

FotoWeek DC founder Theo Adamstein started the festival in 2008. Originally a regional project for locals to get noticed and share their work, it quickly evolved to international prestige. This year’s exhibits features artists from 44 countries.

While some locals have expressed concern with the festival moving way from its roots as a project focused on local artists, Adamstein thinks it’s the natural evolution of the project.

“It doesn’t make sense for a festival like this to remain as a local festival,” Adamstein said. “We’re an international city. Thousands of photographers from around the world are passing through here capturing the city and sharing their work.”

Local photographers will have their own exhibit section at the project headquarters at 1800 L Street NW, in the old Borders bookstore. Adamstein has dubbed the location “Fotoweek Central,” and it is the center of events.

A myriad of other exhibits around the city feature genres such as photojournalism, portraiture, commercial photography, fine art photography, travel, the natural world, and cell phone photography. Each year awards are given for the best contributions in each genre. See the 2011 winners.

Many of the events in the festival are free, including the series of lectures taking place at FotoWeek Central on November 5th and 6th. Topics include: ‘Copyright: Know It or Blow It!’, ‘An Introduction to Branding and Marketing for Commercial Photographers’, ‘Innovation: The Myth of Thinking Outside the Box’, and ‘Using Photography to Change the World’. Participants can learn from experts the essential skills to make it in the business and manage their own work.

The festival also provides a unique opportunity for exposure and critical review for local photographers, both amateur and professional. A portfolio review at the Corcoran Gallery of Art will feature a group of acclaimed photographers, photo editors, curators, and other experts to offer critical suggestions ranging from creative review to marketing assistance. Participants will even have the opportunity to propose photo essays, book and exhibit ideas, or illustrated articles. The expert panel features professionals from the Washington Post, The Library of Congress, National Geographic, Syracuse University, and The Corcoran Gallery of Art, among others.

Adamstein says portfolio review participants can expect to receive honest advice on how to improve their work, whatever their skill level. “With emerging photographers, it helps to have a professional or someone well renowned to get an honest opinion and to get advice,” he said.  The reviews take place November 12th from 10am-5pm, and tickets are still available, though the event is almost certain to sell out.

This year also features the launch of a new project called FotoPage, allowing photographers to create an online portfolio through the FotoWeek DC website, creating an opportunity to be discovered. Users can curate 5 portfolios of up to 24 images each. The site will launch during the festival, according to Adamstein.

Click to see the full schedule of events

The Smithsonian’s National Museum of the American Indian opened its doors this past weekend to a new exhibition, “A Song for the Horse Nation.” The exhibition, nestled on the third floor of the museum, tells the epic tale of the how the return of the horse to the Americas changed Native culture, from lifestyle to war to art and beyond. “For some Native peoples, the horse still is an essential part of daily life,” said exhibit curator Emil Her Many Horses (Ogala Lakota). “For others, the horse will always remain an element of our identity and our history. The Horse Nation continues to inspire, and Native artists continue to celebrate the horse in our songs, our stories, and our works of art.”

To walk the exhibit’s path is to walk side by side with the conjoined path of Native and horse. Though horses were introduced to the Native Americans relatively late in North American history—the early 1700s saw the initial widespread explosion of the horse from captured Spanish mounts in the southwest—the image of Indians astride these graceful animals is one that is common to modern Americans. The “Horse Nation” quickly entwined themselves with Native communities, forever altering tribal culture and the Indian way of life.

The Smithsonian’s exhibit seeks to give us a view into that not-so-distant past. But it’s more than just a simply history lesson: subtly but surely, “A Song for the Horse Nation” reveals how interwoven both horse and man became among 38 tribal communities from the Plains and Western United States. The horse was more than a beast of burden or a tool; the animal became a part of Native culture that still resonates among the people today.

‘beaded coat’
courtesy of ‘bhrome’

It opens with historical context, showing the arrival of the horse to the North American continent from as early as the 1500s. Believed to have returned to the continent after evolving and moving westward through Asia and Europe, the horse made its return among the exploratory ships of the Spanish and British. The first appearance of the horse was quite the shock to the native peoples and helped the Spanish to quickly overcome any opposition. Natives had never seen an animal that could carry a person and many struggled to come up with a name for the new creature. Many Native names for the horse ended up being a derivative of “dog” such as the Cree’s “big dog” (mistatim), the Lakota’s “mystery dog” (sunkakhan), or the Blackfoot’s “elk dog” (ponoka-mita).

Natives quickly turned their fear of the horse into desire for them. In 1680, the Pueblo Uprising opened up the floodgates as hundreds of captured Spanish horses were traded to nearby tribes. The horse population quickly expanded north and east across established tribal trading networks. Historians often note that as the acquisition and absorption of the horse moved west-to-east, the rifle’s debut and spread among Indians moved east-to-west. By the time of the country’s western expansion in the 1800s, both rifle and horse were fixtures among the encountered Native communities.

‘DSC_0014′
courtesy of ‘bhrome’

The exhibition quickly recounts the historical narrative, however, moving from scholarly education into that of cultural definition. By the time of America’s expansion into the West, horses had made their mark among the Indians. Their likenesses decorated shirts, dresses, tipis, blankets, and toys. Because the Native perspective sees creation around them as a partner in life rather than an obstacle to overcome, the horse was a fellow creature to share the land with. It’s grace and beauty were respected and honored by Natives; to own a horse was a mark of prestige and blessing. The practice of “giveaway” became an honored tradition and a symbol of wealth. Owning several horses was one thing; generously giving them away in times of ceremony and to those less fortunate was the ultimate gesture in prosperity and humbleness.

Of note is the lengths the exhibition goes in pointing out the importance of horse capturing to these communities. Young men would often go out either solo or in small groups and raid an enemy’s encampment through taking horses. Several artifacts on display show a warrior’s personal record or stories to that effect, decorating their blankets or clothing with these heroic exploits. A young man who could return to the camp with a captured horse received praise and honor from family and friends. Horse capturing was elevated to an art form. And there was no greater honor for such a young man to return astride such a prize and then give it away to a widow or other unfortunate member of the community. Such actions manifested the man’s generosity of spirit, as well as his bravery.

When seen from this point of view, it isn’t hard to page back through the history books in our minds and remember the stories taught about “Indian horse thieves” and how it was a scourge upon the Western colonists. From the white man’s viewpoint, it was breaking the law. From the Indian view, it was a cultural norm. These contradictory viewpoints were but a part of the constant conflict that clashed repeatedly between the ever-expanding Americans and the Natives of land.

‘cree saddle beadwork’
courtesy of ‘bhrome’

Even as the West was lost and the reservations became the norm, the horse never left the Native communities. By the 1900s, the horse was irrevocably tied to Native culture, honored in beadwork and drawings in both art and personal belongings. Though many horses were confiscated by the U.S. government (such as the vast herds of the Nez Perce), they remained an undeniable part of the community. As the exhibition winds through the last days of the frontier and the ends of the Indian Wars, the horse is seen more in cultural symbols and traditions of the tribal communities than as a weapon of war.

It becomes obvious that the cultural shift remained permanent. Even as the reservation lifestyle forever altered Indian ways, it did not sever the connection Natives had to the horse. More and more, Native peoples honored the horse through their beadwork and crafts, creating elaborate decorations and ornamentations for use in celebrations, parades, and powwows. The Smithsonian’s exhibition blooms at the end with artwork from the turn of the 20th Century through the modern day. Contemporary artwork using traditional methods such as beadwork and quillwork, as well as ceramics and oil painting, still convey the respect and honor Natives have for the horse. At the very end, a short film highlights the Nez Perce’s continued efforts to rebuild their horse herds through the Young Horsemen’s Program, which seeks to preserve the Appaloosa made famous by their ancestors. Their dedication to not just breeding but in respecting the animal speaks volumes of the attitudes of many tribal communities today.

By showcasing modern artwork through everyday items such as martingales and blankets, masks and paintings, the exhibition ties together and drives home just how important the horse truly is to Native culture and relevance. It is a syncretistic blend of the old and new, adaptation and growth, and a shining example of the spirit of today’s Native people. The Horse Nation is alive and well because of their efforts and will remain an integral part of the history, culture, and understanding of Native America for generations to come.

A Song for the Horse Nation will remain open through January 7, 2013. The National Museum of the American Indian is located at the corner of 4th Street and Independence Avenue, SW. The closest Metro station is L’Enfant plaza, servicing the Blue, Yellow, Orange, and Green lines. For more information, visit the museum’s website. You can see some of the items in the exhibit on my Flickr site.

Georgetown Cupcake has unveiled the world’s largest cupcake for the Guinness Book of World Records at the Washington Harbour.  Post record keeping/awarding administration, the 1000 lb cupcake will be sliced up, so head on down there for a taste of the world’s largest cupcake while it lasts.

Ah, Virginia–home to part of the Blue Ridge mountains, the Virginia ham, and of course, the land for lovers. So to celebrate the greatness of Old Dominion, Arcadia Center for Sustainable Food & Agriculture and Woodlawn, a National Trust Historic Site, are hosting the second annual “The Vices That Made Virginia.”

From 4 to 8 PM on November 5th, you can indulge in bourbon, oysters on the half shell, cigar rolling, as well as other “vices” from the state. In addition to specialty drinks from local distilleries, brewers and winemakers, chefs Nathan Anda, Kyle Bailey, Bertrand Chemel, Tiffany MacIsaac, Steve Mannino and Rob Weland will be serving up a scrumptious autumn spread. Dishes include local lamb, corn spoon bread with leeks and cheddar, spiced apple-oatmeal crumble and much more. Some of the local purveyors showcasing their ingredients in the chefs’ dishes include New Frontier Farms, Kilmer’s Farm & Orchard, Meadow Creek Dairy and Rappahannock Oysters.

Get ready to get your vices on at the farm next weekend, fellow Washingtonians. Tickets are $125 per person and all proceeds from the evening go to support Arcadia and Woodlawn.

out of the earth / I sing for them
A Horse nation / I sing for them
out of the earth / I sing for them,
the animals / I sing for them.
~a song by the Teton Sioux

Emil Her Many Horses is, by first appearance, a quiet, unassuming gentleman. A museum specialist in the office of Museum Programs at the Smithsonian’s National Museum of the American Indian (NMAI), he is responsible for the facility’s latest exhibition “A Song for the Horse Nation.” A member of the Ogala Lakota nation of South Dakota, his expertise on the Northern and Southern Plains cultures is well served and seen in the exhibit that opens to the public tomorrow.

NMAI’s latest offering is a touching and brilliant display of how the horse has deeply impacted and affected Native cultures since their introduction to the Americas in the 17th century. “The exhibit tells the history of the horse; that they were here once before, migrated to Europe, and returned as the horse we know today,” explained Her Many Horses. “They changed Native culture. The horse had a major impact on hunting, warfare, travel, spirituality. These were big changes.” Changes that extend beyond the European vision of the animal.

Seen as a beast of burden, a tool, a weapon, the horse was brought and used by European explorers and colonists early in America’s “New World” history. And their introduction, according to many Natives, was probably one of the biggest positive changes brought about by the white man.

Emil Her Many Horses, NMAI Museum Specialist (photo courtesy NMAI)

Exploding across the Plains after the Pueblo Uprising in 1680, the value of the horse was readily apparent to many tribes. Their acceptance quickly altered the very fabric of tribal life and culture as Natives admired the animal’s grace, beauty, bravery, and determination. “When American Indians encountered horses—which some tribes call the Horse Nation—they found an ally, inspiring and useful in times of peace, and intrepid in times of war,” said NMAI Director Kevin Gover (Pawnee). “This exhibition shows how these splendid creatures came to represent courage and freedom to many tribes across North America.”

“The horse really became a fellow creature that lives with us,” explained Her Many Horses. “They are a comrade, ally, friend. What we try to establish is a relationship with a fellow living being, something that really reaches into the realm of companionship, as opposed to that of a simple tool or resource.”

That relationship can be seen in Her Many Horses’ own family history. The name is Lakota and that of his paternal great-great-grandmother. “More accurately, the English translation would be ‘Many Horses Woman,’ meaning she owned many horses,” he said. When the first census was made on the Ogala Lakota reservation in South Dakota, her name became the family’s last name. The census takers, however, had mistranslated “Tasunka Ota Win” into English as “Her Many Horses.” And so it stuck.

‘DSC_0123′
courtesy of ‘bhrome’
Among the Lakota, horses were a measure of wealth, but not in the traditional European sense. To the Lakota—and many other tribes—a more important demonstration of wealth came from giving away horses or other items in honor of a family member. Possession was not as important as generosity. Horses could be given away at naming and memorial ceremonies, or at giveaways, which celebrated anything from the return of a war veteran, honoring a graduating student, or the marriage of a daughter.

In the exhibit is a piece familiar to Her Many Horses. It is familiar because he made the toy painted tipi himself. “I made it to talk about the origins of my last name. It shows a woman—my grandmother—surrounded by many horses. To me, it became an honorable name to have.”

The opening of the exhibit is exciting to Her Many Horses. An expansion of the original exhibit at NMAI’s New York City George Gustav Heye Center location, this one adds an additional 15 major objects. One of the centerpiece displays is a 19^th century 38-foot round tipi that stands 16 feet tall. Cavorting across the surface are 110 hand-painted horses, both with and without riders, all in full gallop. “The tipi is Hunkpapa-Lakota, showing horse raiding and battle scenes all along the outside,” said Her Many Horses. His glee at being able to set it up for visitors was evident. “If you look at the drawings, you can see who’s the enemy. It’s Lakota versus the Crow—you can tell because of the hairstyles. It’s kind of a war record of the warrior who lived within.”

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courtesy of ‘bhrome’
The tipi was a challenge for the staff to set up, taking them four afternoons. “We knew it had been re-sized, plus it wasn’t being set on open ground but a slick display surface,” he said. It’s safe to say the effort was worth it; the tipi is an exquisite testimony to how personal the horse was to one individual in the tribe; a sentiment still shared across the Native landscape today.

Other objects of life and culture of the Plains tribes decorate places of honor in the exhibit. “We included pieces that are associated with famous people, such as the rifles of Geronimo, Chief Rain-in-the-Face, Chief Joseph,” said Her Many Horses. “And we have photographs of many of these people, showing that link between the object and the person.” These placards are entitled Honor In the Name, introducing them to visitors and providing a glimpse of past lives to those in the modern day.

But primarily, the horse dominates. So entwined into the lives of tribes, they are the subject of beaded artwork on tipi bags, shaped into dance sticks, decorate jackets. Objects of everyday use with the horse, such as saddles, saddlebags, and horse masks, are given individual touches of color and life, providing an intimate look into the relationship between the owner and the animal. “I want the public to walk out of there understanding not just how the horse revolutionized Native life, but how that thread continues even today,” Her Many Horses said.

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courtesy of ‘bhrome’
Bridging that gap of history to the modern, Her Many Horses invited Native artists to create their own contemporary art for the exhibit. He believes it’s critically important to show that continued thread of relationship still impacts Native life in today’s world. “We may no longer depend on the horse for travel, for hunting, for warfare – but it’s still important to us, our culture.”

To that end, NMAI will celebrate the opening of its new exhibit with a variety of events on Saturday, October 29. Partnering with the Washington International Horse Show, celebrating its 53^rd year through this weekend at the Verizon Center, both WIHS and NMAI are providing free programs and activities at both locations. (A free shuttle will run between the museum and the Verizon Center on Saturday only.)

Central to Saturday’s events is a presentation of the U.S. and Crow Nation flags on horseback between Crow equestrian and artist Kennard Real Bird and the DC Mounted Police. Following the presentation, K.J. Jacks of the Cherokee Nation of Oklahoma will sing the U.S. national anthem. The presentation will happen in the museum’s outdoor Welcome Plaza.

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courtesy of ‘bhrome’

Award-winning bead worker and porcupine quill worker Juanita Fogarty Growing Thunder (Assiniboine/Sioux), whose own art is displayed within the exhibition, will hold demonstrations throughout the day. Children will be able to “dress” a full-sized horse mannequin using pieces that simulate many of those in the exhibit. S.D. Nelson (Lakota/Standing Rock Sioux), a children’s book author and illustrator, will host special storytelling sessions and lectures for both kids and adults.

It’s a jubilee worthy of the exhibition, and one that Emil Her Many Horses and the museum’s staff have worked tirelessly to bring together. It’s a celebration of the horse through many pathways, one that gives a glimpse into the history, life, and culture of many of the 38 Native communities represented.

‘beaded horse mask 1′
courtesy of ‘bhrome’

In the exhibition’s companion book of the same name, Her Many Horses points out one particular piece that succinctly symbolizes the power and value of the horse in the Native community. A beautiful and elaborate Lakota horse head cover is on display. Covered in exquisite designs among a glimmering background of white beads, the cover was used at a 1904 Fourth of July parade at the Pine Ridge Reservation. Alone, it is a fascinating work of art in geometric design and stitching.

What stands out, however, is that it appears to have been made with the intention to be recycled later on as different objects. A critical Native eye can discern where a pair of women’s beaded leggings could be fashioned from the “face” of the horse. A pipe bag, from the “cheeks.” Tipi bags (or, “possible” bags, because pretty much anything possible could be stored inside them) and moccasins could also have been made from the upper and lower neck areas.

The resourcefulness of the artist is evident; fortunately for us today, never followed through. The union of gifts never passed on and remains a delicate and intricate symbol of traditions brought together through the celebration of the horse. It stands as a beaded and colorful declaration of the art and the grace of the animal.

To Emil Her Many Horses, it is an expression of life and of culture that will hopefully never fade. “The Horse Nation continues to inspire, and Native artists continue to celebrate the horse in our songs, our stories, and our works of art.” With the opening of this latest exhibit, Her Many Horses honors his Lakota roots. Through the blend of art and artifacts, stories and characters, community and culture, he presents the public a valuable gift worth more than a simple object. He gives away to all of us a view into part of the past, the present, and the future of Native America.

And that is a song worthy of the Horse Nation.

A Song for the Horse Nation opens on Saturday, October 29 and will remain open through January 7, 2013. The National Museum of the American Indian is located at the corner of 4th Street and Independence Avenue, SW. The closest Metro station is L’Enfant plaza, servicing the Blue, Yellow, Orange, and Green lines. For more information, visit the museum’s website. WeLoveDC will have a full review of the exhibit on Monday; you can see some of the items in the exhibit on my Flickr site.

Harvest Moon at Otsukimi event. Photo credit: LMorris.

The Japanese traditionally enjoy Otsukimi (moon-viewing) on the night of the full moon in autumn. Centuries ago, Otsukimi was introduced to Japan from China, though as it spread throughout the land it was modified to include native Japanese products. The Japanese typically make offerings to the moon of autumn fruits and vegetables, odango (rice dumplings) and susuki (Japanese pampas grass) to give thanks for the year’s harvest.

Approximately 125 people attended this year’s event, hosted by the Japan-America Society of Washington, DC and the Textile Museum earlier this month. Perfectly clear skies, comfortably cool temperatures, and an atmosphere of serene enjoyment were to be had in the Textile Museum’s lovely moonlit garden. Contributing to the ambience were calming traditional Japanese tunes of koto (Japanese stringed musical instruments), including an homage to the “round, round moon.”

Koto players at Otsukimi event. Photo credit: LMorris

Many families laid out their picnic blankets, as child-friendly activities included origami, games and yukata dressing (“yukata” is a cotton kimono worn in the summertime). In addition to delicious obento (Japanese lunch boxes), the event’s activities also included:

- a traditional Japanese tea ceremony
- Bon Odori (traditional Japanese dance)
- Sake tasting, including 4 varieties of rice wine, plus plum wine
- Writing Haiku (Japanese short form poetry)
- Mochitsuki (rice pounding) and making of mochi (rice cakes)

Obon dancer at Otsukimi event. Photo credit: LMorris

Mark Hitsig, Executive Director of Japan-America Society of Washington, DC was justifiably proud of this year’s celebration. “This is just the second or third time we have had the weather and the moon cooperate in my many years being involved with hosting the event.” This year’s Otsukimi was the second time it was held at the Textile Museum, which seemed a perfect setting with its secluded garden providing the requisite greenery to frame the rising moon. “It’s become just the perfect size for what we would like to do at these kind of events — not too big, not too small,” said Hitsig.

Annual Otsukimi celebrations are becoming more prevalent in the US, hosted by local Japanese cultural societies. Other notable celebration locations include Phoenix, Oakland, Dallas, Philadelphia, and Portland, OR.

The Moses family wearing yukata. Photo credit: LMorris

Photo courtesy National Geographic

For November, the folks at the National Geographic Museum have put together some great programs before the holidays, including photographers, authors, and speakers. If you’d like to win a pair of tickets to an November program, simply list the two events you’d like to attend in comments before 2pm Friday, October 28. Make sure you use a legitimate email address and your first name. We’ll contact two winners (as determined by random.org) Friday afternoon.

If you’re interested in attending one of these events, visit NatGeo’s website or their box office (800-647-5463), located at 17th and M Street, NW. Keep in mind that parking in NatGeo’s underground lot is free for any programs beginning after 6 pm.

Lost Gold of the Dark Ages: The Mystery of the Saxon Hoard ($20)
Nov 1, 7:30 pm

In July 2009, amateur treasure hunters searching with metal detectors on a Staffordshire farm made an amazing discovery: hundreds of precious gold and silver objects from the seventh century. The trove of treasures and battlefield items remains England’s most important Anglo-Saxon archaeological find—a time capsule revealing new stories from when Germanic invaders were laying modern England’s ethnic foundations. Join us for a screening of the New National Geographic Channel film Secrets of the Lost Gold, followed by a panel discussion including Caroline Alexander, author of the new Nat Geo book and magazine article about the discovery, David Symons from the Birmingham Museums and Art Gallery, and Deb Klemperer from the Potteries Museum and Art Gallery.

Mattias Klum; photo courtesy National Geographic

The Genographic Project Update ($18)
Nov 2, 7:30 pm

Since 2005, Dr. Spencer Wells, Nat Geo Explorer-in- Residence and director of the Genographic Project, has led scientific teams in collecting and analyzing DNA samples from hundreds of thousands of participants, creating a genetically based map of human migration from our African beginnings 60,000 years ago. Get an up-to-the-minute report and look over the horizon at the next steps to be taken in this groundbreaking research.

The Unconquered: Brazil’s People of the Arrow ($20)
Nov 3, 7:30 pm

In 2002, National Geographic sent journalist Scott Wallace into the recesses of Brazil’s Amazon to track an indigenous tribe—the People of the Arrow. Hear his gripping first-person account of adventure and survival as described in his new book: The Unconquered: In Search of the Amazon’s Last Uncontacted Tribes.

Being There ($20)
Nov 5, 7:30 pm

Get breath-stopping perspectives on Earth’s most glorious vistas—the Okavango Delta, Iceland’s glaciers, and the rain forests of Southeast Asia—with one of the greatest natural history photographers of our time, Mattias Klum. His incomparable work earned him a medal from the King of Sweden. Through his lens, marvel at the beauty of our planet captured in striking new photographs and high-definition video.

The Soldier’s Sketchbook ($18; discount for military and veterans available)
Nov 8, 7:30 pm

Joseph Farris in his new Nat Geo book A Soldier’s Sketchbook: From the Front Lines of World War II tells the story of life in the foxholes as a young Army photographer, before becoming a renowned cartoonist, whose work has appeared on the cover and in the pages of the New Yorker magazine since 1971. Farris will converse with Anthony Swofford, author of the critically acclaimed Jarhead: A Marine’s Chronicle of the Gulf War and Other Battles.

Photo courtesy National Geographic

The Big Idea: Who Lives? Who Dies? ($20)
Nov 11, 7 pm

Why do only certain species survive? How can our growing knowledge of genomes reveal a deeper understanding of Life’s cycles and secrets? Hear a conversation between Martin Chalfie, 2008 Nobel Laureate in Chemistry, who pioneered using a fluorescent protein to track cancer, and Nat Geo emerging explorer Beth Shapiro, who uses ancient plant and animal DNA to study evolution. Nat Geo Weekend host Boyd Matson moderates.

Dangerous Encounters with Brady Barr ($16)
Nov 12, 1 pm

Take a thrilling ride through the world of wildlife with Brady Barr, reptile expert and host of the National Geographic Channel series Dangerous Encounters. The first person to capture all 23 species of wild crocodiles, Brady has risked his life to preserve some of the world’s most amazing animals. Go behind the scenes with Brady and hear about his most exciting adventures.

Ocean Soul ($20)
Nov 14, 7:30 pm

Using his camera to tell the oceans’ stories, Brian Skerry has spent more than 10,000 hours underwater, often in extreme conditions. His images celebrate the mystery of the depths and offer intimate portraits of elusive sea creatures. Join him for a journey beneath the waves with images from Ocean Soul, a landmark retrospective of photographs published by Nat Geo Books with support from Conservation International.

The Untold Civil War ($20)
Nov 16, 7:30 pm

Marking the 150th anniversary of the beginning of the Civil War, distinguished historian James Robertson’s new Nat Geo book, The Untold Civil War: Exploring the Human Side of War, offers compelling new stories behind the traditional battle narratives. Dramatically illustrated with archival images and contemporary photography, Robertson’s talk will deliver surprises at every turn.

On the Trail of the Tiger ($20)
Nov 30, 7:30 pm

Steve Winter is an award-winning wildlife photographer known for innovative technology and his uncanny ability to get up-close images of the world’s most elusive animals. He recently traveled through India, Sumatra, and Thailand to document the dwindling population of Asian tigers. Winter’s powerful and moving images of these beautiful animals will appear in the December 2011 issue of National Geographic.

On October 21st, the Corcoran Gallery of Art opened its doors for the second annual NOW At Night. Organized by the museum’s Contemporaries committee to support emerging and mid-career contemporary artists, many of the most bold-face names of Washington’s art and culture worlds were in attendance.

Entertainment was provided by DJ Spooky, an internationally-renowned performer who introduced himself to the crowd as a native Washingtonian who had grown up only a short distance from where guests stood. His performance integrated turntables, a custom-designed iPad app, and a string trio all into elaborate compositions.

All the galleries of the museum were open for exploring as well. They remained calm and quiet, even as partying in the main spaces picked up, which made for an interesting juxtaposition. A sitting area upstairs was set up with iconic mid-centrury modern designed furniture from Design Within Reach giving guests a spot to sit and chat.

In all, the event was lovely and something to look forward to next autumn. Until then, the Corcoran is always hosting programs and events which are well worth checking out.

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With Republican debates underway and the growth of both Occupy Wall Street and Occupy Occupy Wall Street, it appears most of America is angry, frustrated, or confused. And we’re all pretty much broke.

What better time, then, to look back on the legacy of a president who saw the country through its most traumatic era?

This month, Ford’s Theatre launches the Lincoln Legacy Project, a 5-year effort to create dialogue around the issues of tolerance, equality, and acceptance.

You read that right: it’s a 5-year project. And yes, they know that 5 years in DC time is about 2.5 generations of staffers moving in and out. By the time they’re finished, we’ll be entering primary debates again.

“Lincoln’s legacy is vast—far more than can be explored even in a 5-year initiative. For that reason, we are focusing The Lincoln Legacy Project on the foundation of his legacy: equality,” says Paul Tetreault, director of Ford’s Theatre. “We seek to present work that is both meaningful and motivational; to showcase the courageous men and women who pursued equality against extraordinary odds, as well as investigate moments in our nation’s history when we failed to live up to our ideals.”

Each year, Ford’s Theatre will present one centerpiece show around which they hope to start a dialogue. The theater will host special events to highlight the centerpiece show, including post-performance discussions and panel presentations.

The project’s first year also coincides with the February 2012 grand opening of the Center for Education and Leadership, a renovated campus for the theater’s educational programs.

We Love DC’s Rachel Levitin reviewed Parade – this year’s centerpiece production – back in September. Parade tells the true story of Leo Frank, who was wrongfully accused and ultimately lynched by a mob in early 20th-century Atlanta. It runs through October 30.

Related panel discussions end next Monday, October 24 at 7pm with the event “And the Young Shall Lead Us: A Conversation with Operation Understanding DC.” Tickets are free and available at the box office. Arrive early for the best seats.

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UPDATE: THE BOOMERANG PARTY BUS TO THE RENNFEST WITH WE LOVE DC AND THE PASSENGER IS NOW SOLD OUT! THANK YOU!

Ah, yes, it’s that time of year. The time when you begin to have strange cravings for Steak-on-a-Stick, or smoked turkey leg eaten right off the bone, gnawing away with relish like Henry VIII. Perhaps you find yourself speaking in an excruciatingly bad English accent, or inexplicably adding “e” to the ends of words like “Shop” or “Old” – well then my friend, it’s time to don thy frippery best and hie thee to the Maryland Renaissance Festival!

RennFest is always a blast, and this year we’ve decided to really let our inhibitions run wild with some good olde-fashioned goofy fun. Lots of it. And we want you to come along! We Love DC has partnered with The Passenger and the Boomerang Party Bus to bring you to the Maryland Renaissance Festival this Sunday, October 16th! Tickets are $25 and include both your bus ride to and fro ye old faire and your entry admission! Snap them up on the magickal PayPal.

We’ll depart promptly at 11am from The Passenger (that’s at 1021 7th Street NW, milords and ladies) and travel to the Festival in a refurbished school bus replete with music, mayhem and dance poles (Yes, I know that’s an anachronism. But seriously, have you seen The Tudors?). After arrival at the Festival you’re free to wander the Revel Grove, slurp down some oyster shooters, indulge in fried Oreos, beer and bee stings, testing your mad skills at archery or feats of strength, buying chainmail underwear, and just giving in to the kitschy glory that is the Maryland Renaissance Festival. Then our carriage departs around 5pm to hie back to The Passenger just in time for a late, delicious brunch.

So please come along with fellow WLDC authors Don, Fedward, myself and the rest of our motley crew as we join our favorite folks from The Passenger on a trip back in time… I may even wear a corset. HUZZAH!

Photo courtesy Juliet Eilperin and National Geographic

A first glance at the title “Demon Fish: Travels Through the Hidden World of Sharks” would probably invoke visions of bloody feeding frenzies, mouths full of razor-sharp teeth, and the sleek arrow-shaped bodies of deadly sharks. With, of course, the appropriate Jaws theme rolling around in our heads. And we couldn’t be more wrong with that impression.

Juliet Eilperin, a national environmental reporter for The Washington Post, has the spotlight this evening at the National Geographic Museum. And what she’ll be sharing with tonight’s audience will be somewhat removed from that first glimpse of her book. Despite its fearsome title, her work is more of a revelation of this sleek, deadly species that cruise the ocean’s depths (and shallows). Let’s face it: sharks have held a solid spot of fascination in our collective conscious, often as one of fear or as an image of ‘terrible beauty.’ Eilperin shines another light on sharks, however – conservation. Demon Fish strives to expose the intricacies and personalities of the shark-human relationship and reveals it’s not all about blood, teeth, and gore.

The idea bloomed after Eilperin began looking for something to write about. The oceans have had a long pull on Eilperin; they’re a subject she can fill conversations about, and for good reason. “It’s still unknown territory to humans, to a large extent, so that’s what intrigues me,” she confided. “So much of our world has been explored and documented, but when it comes to the sea, we’re still in a period of intense discovery. Also, it’s just so different from the environment in which we operate on a daily basis.” Casting about for the right angle, a colleague suggested the shark and it intrigued her enough to explore further.

Photo courtesy Juliet Eilperin and National Geographic

Rather than go the route so many authors have gone, recounting endless tales of danger and triumph, blood and fear, she looked for something different. “We’re at such a critical point with them, both in terms of how sharks are in danger of disappearing, and we’re learning so much about them through science,” she said. “So it made sense to focus on sharks at this moment. They’re also globally distributed, so it allowed me to travel the world and meet people from all sorts of places.”

Over the span of two years, Eilperin traveled the globe in search of different angles to look at the planet’s more deadly aquatic species. She discovered that sharks weren’t the one-dimensional species that exists in today’s common mindset. These were a creature entwined in many cultures for a variety of reasons—and one in danger of finding itself on the sliding slope to extinction.

She easily shared our society’s instant fascination with the shark, despite its dangerous nature. “I think we’re fascinated by their many senses—the fact that they can detect a drop of blood in an Olympic-sized swimming pool, and use electro-reception to spot a fish buried in sand. Plus, the fact that they can eat us is both terrifying and compelling.” But she also discovered much, much more.

Photo courtesy Juliet Eilperin and National Geographic

One cultural viewpoint stands out from her travels. Her inquisitiveness took her to Hawai’i, where she found a more nuanced view of sharks among the islands’ ancient culture. “I loved how the Hawaiians saw them as sort of Mafia godfathers, where if you paid proper homage, they would reward you but punish your enemies,” she explained. And yet, in other parts of the world, the shark is nothing more than a prop in a massive culinary scandal. Shark fin soup, she discovered, could be a considered more a culinary scandal than delight.

In many Asian homes, serving shark fin soup is a way of proclaiming the high status of the celebrants and honors the guests around the table. The continent’s growing wealth and population explosion has begun to outstrip the ocean’s ability to provide for the ever-increasing demand of shark fins. Eilperin says that between 1996 and 2000, nearly 73 million sharks were killed globally to supply the fin trade. And the soup? She was floored to find that the fin was nothing more than a “translucent, tasteless bit of noodle.” It added next to nothing to the delicacy; the dish proved to be less a culinary dish and more of a status icon.

That bit of discovery was an eye-opener for Eilperin and presented itself as an obvious solution to simple conservation. “Simply reject the global consumption of shark’s fin soup and the catching of sharks in kill tournaments in the U.S. and elsewhere,” she said. “More broadly, people just need to focus on what’s happening in the oceans.” Because sharks reproduce very slowly, there is no way for the species to reproduce fast enough to prevent overfishing. Sustainable shark fisheries are a pipe dream.

Photo courtesy Juliet Eilperin and National Geographic

Photo courtesy Juliet Eilperin and National Geographic

One cannot go on a two-year trek to write about sharks without getting in the water with them and Eilperin was eager to join in. Shark dives varied in how they were conducted and she had a myriad of experiences. “A typical dive often involved a scientist or dive operator chumming the water with bloody fish to attract the sharks, but in the case of whale sharks, we didn’t do that,” she said. “And with the exception of my one cage diving experience with great whites in South Africa, I just went diving or snorkeling with sharks without any specific protection. And most of the time I was swimming near coral reefs, so there were other great animals and plants to see as well.”

Her first dive was also her most memorable. “The first time I got in the water with sharks in Bimini I was terrified, so that experience is still the most vivid for me. I recall them coming from all directions, and I was shocked by how beautiful they were.” The range of photographs chosen for the book showcase much of the animal’s predatory beauty—and the rawness of its coexistence with humanity.

Photo courtesy Juliet Eilperin and National Geographic

By the end of her research and subsequent writing, Eilperin’s perspective on this deadly species had been altered. Her experiences encompassed many different species under the water but also hundreds of personalities across the globe. Her book recounts many of her encounters, from fishermen to shark fin traders to scientists. “I have a much closer connection to the sea now than I did before I started writing the book, which is amazing. And I would do it again in a heartbeat—through I think my family, especially my mother, is happy I’m not in the water with sharks quite as much as I used to be.”

Eilperin’s experiences are winding tale of discovery – not just of the mysterious shark but also of our human interactions with this oft-misunderstood species. More than just a Hollywood “boogeyman,” the shark has firmly planted its toothy bite into the fabric of many cultures. Eilperin shows us that it’s now up to us to return the favor; through even simple awareness and conservation, the shark will not fade as a mystery but remain as a living symbol of this planet’s terrible, graceful beauty.

Join Juliet Eilperin tonight at 7:30 pm at the National Geographic Museum. The Museum is located at 1600 M Street, NW. Tickets are available online or by calling the box office at 202.857.7700. There will be a wine and dessert reception after the program. Parking is free for all program attendees who arrive after 6 pm.