Getaways: Philadelphia

City Hall
City Hall
by Corinne Whiting

The mention of Philly conjures different associations for different people. Some instantly envision mounds of steaming cheesesteak (“Get the whiz or they’ll mock you!” Philadelphians warn). Others think of the Founding Fathers, the Eagles and their die-hard fans, that famously cracked bell, It’s Always Sunny in Philadelphia or of a fist-pumping Rocky racing up the art museum steps. (Some others I know love to bring up this ridiculous survey. I’m reluctant to make any cracks here when DC doesn’t always fare so well itself…)

For me Philly now means frequent visits with a dear friend whom I met in Scotland (go figure) and hours of aimless wandering around this fascinating city. Each time I marvel at how a place so physically close can sometimes feel so very far away. As a child I traveled once or twice to this historically-rich town (the nation’s temporary capital from 1790 to 1800) to stand on the very spots where the country’s Founding Fathers drafted the Declaration of Independence and Constitution. As school kids here we learned about Renaissance man Benjamin Franklin, famed not only for his revolutionary electricity experiment, but also for creating the country’s first insurance company and the city’s first public library and fire department. We ogled at the Liberty Bell, rung to announce the Catholic Emancipation Act of 1828 in Great Britain, hopped back on our bus, and trekked home to the nation’s newer capital.

These days I make the two-and-a-half to four-hour “dragon bus” journey (I’d recommend the speedier/pricier Amtrak option if unpredictable budget shuttles aren’t your thing) when craving an urban change of scene. When DC is feeling just a little too rigid or pristine or orderly, and New York feels too far away, I head north to the “City of Brotherly Love.” Franklin deemed Philadelphia the “new Athens,” but to me, it feels suspiciously reminiscent of Glasgow, Scotland, perhaps for its mix of historic charm—cobblestone streets and narrow row houses in European-esque Old City—splashed with modern blocks of gray concrete and urban grit. In any case, the place is full of character and refreshingly down to earth.

Liberty Bell
Peeking in at the Liberty Bell
by Corinne Whiting

I’ve been to Philly quite a few times over the past few years, each time learning more about our neighbor to the north. This past trip was a bit different since my friend’s just moved from West Philly (of Fresh Prince fame) to the ritzier Rittenhouse Square neighborhood. So while our strolls to and from her apartment used to take us by farmers’ markets, bongo drums, college students and Green Line cafes (I highly recommend the French toast bagel there), we now spied downtown shoppers, tango twirlers in the park and posh tourists people-watching from the wicker chairs of a Parisian-style cafe. As my friend explains, Philly is very much a “neighborhood city,” each zone carrying a distinctive vibe.

Ionic St.
by Corinne Whiting

I also mentioned to people that I hung out with this time that I’d be writing up their city in a future blog entry, and much to my delight, I was inundated with fun facts, quirky trivia like the William Penn “sports curse,” personal opinions (Pat’s versus Geno’s for the obligatory cheesesteak) and wacky Philly slang (“jawn”…who knew?).

Italian MarketItalian Market by Corinne Whiting

As is often the case, the best way to experience the city’s diversity is by heading to its ethnic enclaves at mealtime. Conveniently enough, the Chinatown buses unload passengers in a bustling neighborhood where food options range from dive spots for dumplings to cozy cafes for pho. (For the ultimate splurge on posh modern Asian fare, foodies head downtown to Buddakan.) No trip of mine is ever complete without a pass through Reading Terminal Market, an enormous venue where daily vendors include Amish farmers who’ve brought in fresh goods from the countryside, bakers who sell doughy M&M cookies alongside cups of piping hot tea and Greek émigrés who slice gyro meat to fill warm pita pockets. Some find the crowded hall to be sensory overload, but if you can score a seat, it’s a great spot to absorb the Philly scene. The Italian Market is another fun neighborhood to explore. Though in recent years the area has also become home to many Latin American immigrants, the Italian influence is still evident in the lively cafes, bakeries, butcher stores and cheese shops (like Di Bruno Bros., pictured above).

by Corinne Whiting

Nightlife in Philly is highly enjoyable thanks to the city’s prevalence of BYO restaurants (DC, can we hop on this trend please?). At hip spots like Lolita, a BYOTequila downtown, patrons decide just how strong they’ll take their margaritas. Great live music spots I’ve visited so far include the three-tiered, riverside venue World Cafe Live and, for intimate acoustic shows, Tin Angel. Watering holes range from TV-filled bars for all those sports fanatics and clubs for the dancing crowd to low-key breweries like Dock Street and dimly-lit, authentic pubs like Monk’s. And to soak up that hangover the next day? Try charming and friendly Sabrina’s Cafe, where they serve up some mean French toast, Mediterranean wraps, breakfast burritos and sweet potato fries.

by Corinne Whiting

If craving some culture, check out the Rodin Museum, boasting the biggest collection of the artist’s works outside of France. Philly museums host an impressive line-up of shows; I’ve been lucky enough to see the King Tut exhibit at The Franklin Institute and a Frida Kahlo show at the Philadelphia Museum of Art. (And even if an art museum isn’t your idea of an ideal afternoon, I’d highly recommend plopping yourself on the museum’s famous staircase for a good while—the hoards of Rocky-wannabes racing up the steps, hamming it up for cameras and phones, promise to entertain.) For a look at more modern, urban art, tours now take visitors around the city to check out the city’s amazing, ubiquitous murals.

So now what’s left to do? Why eat a cheesesteak, of course. Philadelphians seem a fiercely loyal bunch, be it for allegiances to neighborhoods, sports teams or sandwiches. Mention to a native that you’re on the hunt for the perfect steak (as did our friend, on a mission to hand-deliver a cheesesteak to his dad in Brooklyn), and the recommendations start rolling in. “Go to Pat’s! Geno’s is racist!” “Jim’s on 4th is definitely the best.” “How about trying a vegan version?” Wherever you end up, though, the experience is half the fun. Maybe just read a quick how-to guide before you order. DC and Philly may be nearby, remember, but even when it comes to ordering food, they can feel worlds apart.

(For a slice of Philly in DC, read Cathy’s recent post.)

Geno's Steaks
Land of the cheesesteak
by Corinne Whiting

Corinne has attempted to sate her wanderlust by living in Strasbourg, France, and Edinburgh, Scotland, and by embarking on extended jaunts to such far-flung spots as Australia and South America. But there’s something about her native Washington that keeps boomeranging her home between adventures. A writer, editor and photographer, she loves spreading the word on the lesser-known gems to be found in this vibrant, international capital. Check out some of her photos at as well as why she loves DC.

6 thoughts on “Getaways: Philadelphia

  1. Great post. Love the final picture “land of the cheesesteak”. Thanks for the info on Philly, makes me want to check it out!

  2. Philadelphia is one of my favorite cities in the world. When I say that, people usually look at me like I’m insane. But really, its true.

    Great article, Corinne!

  3. This is a fantastic look at Philly! I’m excited to see Zack in the liberty bell window. The Glasgow comparison is spot on!! and all the byob scene and food spots are mouth-watering! Well done.

  4. great article till you failed to steer people away from Pat’s and Geno’s. they simply both SUCK! I don’t care if they are the originals, they are a disgrace (specially geno’s with all the racists hate crap posted all over).

    Jerry’s subs and pizza makes a better steak sandwich. the list of other better options is abundant. Everyone, do yourself a favor, head on over to and look for a better spot and read the tragic reviews of these horrid tourist magnets. they should be ashamed to serve that crap.

  5. Did you even read the last paragraph, caz? She didn’t promote Pat’s or Geno’s. But since she didn’t, and since I lived in Philly for a few years and have at least a little expertise, I WILL promote both Pat’s and Geno’s as being great places to have your first “wiz wit.” And, as the article says, the experience is at least half the fun, and it’s pretty damn fun to take a cab to Geno’s at 2am and be greeted by all its florescent glory.

    I’d also like to give a shout out to another great restaurant establishment: Primo Hoagies ( There are a bunch in the area and you must go.

    Finally, for all the DC hipster indie kids making the trek to Philly, be sure to check out 700 Club in Northern Liberties ( Go upstairs and dance the night away in what is basically a hot sweaty mess of a party that takes place in a setting akin to your grandma’s attic.

  6. Thanks for all your comments! I know that the mere mention of Pat’s and Geno’s (even if they’re not necessarily being condoned or condemned) can elicit some pretty strong responses, so it’s interesting to hear your views. And thanks for the bonus tips, Matt! I’ll add those to the list for my next visit…